Ottawa continues to make waves on the national culinary scene, with cooking competitions like Top Chef Canada being no exception.
The most recent iteration of the popular TV show, premiering Oct. 20, features Kat Ferries, resident chef at Around the Block Butcher and Market in Ottawa. She will represent not only herself and her place of work, but Ottawa as a whole as she goes toe-to-toe with some of the best chefs in the country.
I spoke with Ferris to find out more about the person behind the apron, as well as her thoughts on Ottawa’s hospitality scene, how far the city has come and in what direction it’s growing.
Ferries began her career at 19 when she attended culinary school in the city. While she’s done training stages and has travelled the world cooking, she has always considered Ottawa homebase for her culinary career. Post-grad, she began work at the now-closed Signatures restaurant, noting that being a 19-year-old cook in one of the city’s best dining establishments was a challenge, but one that shaped her career.
These days, Ferries describes her cooking style as “simplified and seasonal.”
“I aim to elicit an emotional response. Whether it be comfort, happiness, etcetera. Satisfaction of the guest is always my goal.”
Throughout her career, Ferries has acquired a number of different skills. Feeling that complacency would be the death of creativity, she decided that trying various types of culinary jobs would give her the best chance at expanding.
“Fine dining, pastry, butchery, burgers; I’m always chasing what’s new for me and looking to use new skills or a different part of my brain,” she said. “Hospitality can be repetitive, but there are so many avenues to keep it fresh and learn new things. I’ve done a lot of little things and taken opportunities as they’ve come. Competitions were also a big part of my growth. I’ve worked in many supportive restaurants that allowed me to be that person and that chef. Saying yes to opportunities has guided my career.
“I don’t know if anyone could be prepared for Top Chef, but having all of these types of skills at my fingertips gives me the confidence to go for a competition of this level.”
When asked what she thinks of Ottawa’s culinary scene, Ferries said: “It’s so different from when I first started. So many restaurants have opened and closed. I’ve been able to watch people I came up with grow and open their own places, I’ve seen them move cities. There is a fondness that Ottawans have for restaurants that were ‘big back then’ and there is a fondness for what is here now. Ottawa is very supportive of the hospitality community and chefs. We have great events, great growth and the city continues to support the community.”
Ferries also discussed what she thinks the city needs to change before it can be taken seriously as a Canadian culinary powerhouse.
“It’s hard to say. Every city has an identity and if you try to change ours then we’re not unique. A lot of global rankings look for uniqueness. We don’t want to be a mini Toronto or New York. Embracing what makes Ottawa Ottawa is important. Supporting and showcasing smaller restaurants that are doing something unique and fun is important.”
Ferries also noted how the city and its residents can help.
“Ottawa needs to come out more on weekdays. Not just on the weekends! More and more places in the city are becoming like this. It will take time, but we’re getting there. We can’t rush it, but the city is already being mentioned more than we think.”
Ferries said it has been special to represent Ottawa on a stage like Top Chef. “It’s fantastic! To be the only Ottawa chef this season is a great honour. There is pressure, but I hope I make the city proud.”
Ferries also said that it may finally be time for her to open a restaurant of her own.
“I’ve been talking about (opening a restaurant) for so long; if I don’t do it soon it won’t happen. It’s next on the list. Find a space to go for it. If I don’t take the opportunity as it comes, when will it come again?”
When asked to give advice to the next generation of cooks coming up in Ottawa, Ferries said: “Don’t be afraid to go for it. Don’t be afraid to go after that position that you want, but know that if you’re not ready for it, it’ll be much more of a challenge. Don’t compare yourself to others and their timelines. You have no idea what’s going on behind the scenes. If you want to make it long-term you need to be patient and comfortable with laying the groundwork for a long career.
“Skills take a long time to master. Work at it every day. Some skills you’ll be more natural at and others you will struggle with. Don’t be discouraged, but this industry has so much to learn, so never think you’ve learned it all.”
Ferries also offered her thoughts on the one restaurant in Ottawa she would send anyone to experience.
“Perch! The food, the staff, the care they put into every service. It’s fantastic to watch (chef Justin Champagne-Lagarde’s) growth and how far he has come.”
Top Chef Canada season 13 premieres Oct. 20 on the Flavour Network and streams on Stack TV.
Jordan Pizzuti has been a local Ottawa food writer, content creator and hospitality professional for over 10 years. Through his “best of” series, Jordan has cemented himself as an expert in Ottawa hospitality and nightlife. He continues to promote the Ottawa hospitality scene through his “Are We Having Fun Yet?” brand and his work with OBJ.
