Savour the City: What is Akira Back really bringing to Ottawa’s culinary scene?

If you’ve been staying in touch with Ottawa’s culinary scene, then you’ve certainly heard of the new fine dining concept spearheaded by Michelin-starred chef Akira Back, who recently opened his newest namesake restaurant inside the walls of the Fairmont Chateau Laurier. This “modern Japanese cuisine” restaurant is an addition to the empire that Back has […]

If you’ve been staying in touch with Ottawa’s culinary scene, then you’ve certainly heard of the new fine dining concept spearheaded by Michelin-starred chef Akira Back, who recently opened his newest namesake restaurant inside the walls of the Fairmont Chateau Laurier. This “modern Japanese cuisine” restaurant is an addition to the empire that Back has built across the world, and while this is not the concept that earned him his way into the Michelin Guide, it has come with high praise and the expectation of being the next big thing for the Ottawa foodie scene. I was fortunate to have an email interview with Back to find out more about him, his story as a man and chef, and what he expects to bring to Ottawa with this restaurant concept. Back grew up in Korea wanting to be a baseball player, but when his father moved the family to Aspen, Colo., he decided to take up snowboarding as a way to make friends as a teenager who didn’t speak English. This decision paid off, as Back’s love for snowboarding eventually helped him realize his dream of going pro.  But, like any professional athlete, there comes a time where a decision needs to be made on what is next and for Back that was the restaurant industry. After working his way up from dishwasher, he found himself leading and eventually owning restaurant concepts in which he has since made a name for himself. Back describes his style of cooking as a diverse and meant-for-sharing approach to Japanese food. He states that there should always be something for everyone, whether you are new to Japanese cuisine or an expert. Over the years, he has made a significant effort to shift his approach from purely technique-driven dining to creating a more complete and creative experience for each of his guests. So … how did a globally renowned chef find his way into Ottawa’s Chateau Laurier? Back explains that his namesake concept is meant to blend his refined technique and creative offerings into an experience designed to be shared amongst guests. He first attempted this at his two restaurants in Toronto and felt that with Ottawa’s “history and beauty within the country, it was a natural fit for the next location.” Back’s goal with the Chateau Laurier location is to “always make unforgettable memories for our guests with a revolutionary dining experience through one-of-a-kind dishes and gracious service.” Back says his restaurant offers a unique experience not offered elsewhere in Ottawa, so that it can be enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. Well, I was also fortunate enough to be invited to the opening night of Akira Back as a media guest. I was able to experience beverage offerings and a pre-set menu designed to give us an inside look into what Back is trying to bring to Ottawa’s culinary scene. But was it everything we as a city had hoped for? Was it the high-end, big-name restaurant that has finally come to put Ottawa on the map for foodies across the world? In short: no. In fact, Akira Back felt more like a chain restaurant's attempt at being perceived as high-end. I want to be clear: it wasn’t all bad. But the time that I spent at Akira Back’s opening night did not live up to the dream. The evening started with a cocktail hour. Within the beauty of the Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Akira Back boasts a beautiful, dimly lit dining room that does about 140 covers, including a sizable private dining room. The open concept kitchen was chosen in place of a visible bar. There are no bartenders in the front of house and all of the beverages are prepared behind the scenes.

Which brings me to strike one: the cocktails were basic and uninspiring. They didn’t seem to fit the vibe, nor did they hit the mark of a high-end dining establishment. An overly sweet lychee martini and what was effectively a poor-man’s bee’s knees isn’t what I expect when I think of high-level dining. When reading the five-course, 13-dish menu, there were some clear high points that my table and I were most excited about. Throughout the menu, however, there were also some red flags. The first course featured Back’s raw tuna and eringi mushroom pizzas. Both pizzas were dressed identically with umami aioli, micro shiso and the first two of three utilizations of white truffle oil.

Unfortunately, these dishes fell flat. While the mushroom pizza was better seasoned, both lacked character and felt like they were trying to be inoffensive as opposed to impressive. The third dish in course one was a wagyu beef tartare that was much more enjoyable. The beef was cut expertly and had a tender fatty texture and the dashi aioli and herb oil were complementary.

There is credit due to those who were preparing the dishes throughout the evening. Everything looked beautiful and all of the dishes were extremely well-cooked and well-prepared. Even the plateware itself had beautiful artwork done by Back’s mother, to match the artwork she created hanging throughout the restaurant. However, what the team was being asked to prepare felt dated and safe. I was informed by a member of the wait staff that the Akira Back concept is meant to deliver identical food, no matter which location you visit globally. This is a surefire way to create dishes on the safe side, foregoing innovation and excitement for a catch-all, please-all experience.  Course two boasted a much more flavourful salmon tataki with mustard su-miso sauce, which was delicious in its simplicity. However, its accompanying scallop and kiwi dish decided to implement the third iteration of white truffle oil, overshadowing and overpowering an otherwise okay dish.

Course three was the tale of two dishes: a well-cooked eggplant miso dish and the low-light-of-the-night rock shrimp. While the eggplant miso was cooked to the perfect texture and well-seasoned, the highlight of this dish was quickly washed away when its counterpart hit the table. The batter on the rock shrimp created a chewy and gummy texture rather than the expected crispy crunch of a fried shrimp. The shrimp was tossed in gochujang aioli, which immediately deflated the fryer’s work. Additionally, when I read gochujang aioli, I expect some semblance of heat. This dish lacked the necessary punch and flavour to be a success.

Course four was an obvious upgrade from course three. The wagyu picanha was cooked to perfection, but its accompanying wasabi butter was one of the most disappointing bites of the night. Once again, an ingredient that screams “heat and punch” lacked both, as well as any real flavour; you’re better off eating the steak on its own.

I finally found some heat in the “Perfect Storm Signature Roll,” a sushi roll containing shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, salmon belly aburi (torched salmon belly) and chipotle sauce. The torched salmon and chipotle offered a welcome smokiness to the dish and the spicy tuna offered the punch I had been searching for. Of the savoury dishes, this was certainly the highlight. Although it lacked the creativity and innovation we were promised, it was undoubtedly delicious. 

Of the two desserts, the evident highlight was the AB Cigar. From the execution of the tempered chocolate (no easy feat), to the delightful miso-caramel ice cream, to the dark chocolate cocoa nibs that brought balance - this was the type of dish that I’d hoped would be replicated throughout the evening. Elevated, thoughtful and delicious. Truly wonderful, even in its simplicity.

The Akira Back menu as a whole felt like a group of “almosts.” A little bit more thought, effort and care could’ve taken this menu from pretty good eating to a great elevated dining experience. This was the kind of meal you’d be happy to eat in a “nicer” chain restaurant, but at the price point and in the perceived place this new concept is supposed to fit into in Ottawa as culinary innovation, it missed the mark for me. Ottawa’s food scene is a constant victim of perception. Every restaurant that is heavily promoted as “the best we have to offer” provides a view of the industry as a whole. Akira Back is a fine place to eat and can be enjoyable if you know what to expect, but it by no means should replace the incredible restaurants that are at the top of their game throughout the city as the accurate representation of what Ottawa’s culinary scene is capable of.  Jordan Pizzuti has been a local Ottawa food writer, content creator and hospitality professional for over 10 years. Through his “best of” series, Jordan has cemented himself as an expert in Ottawa hospitality and nightlife. He continues to promote the Ottawa hospitality scene through his “Are We Having Fun Yet?” brand and his work with OBJ.