A wall of wine at Buyers + Cellars, Photo by Yvonne Langen
Editor's Note
Savour the City is an occasional column prepared by well-known local food and drink writer Yvonne Langen of Taste and Tipple celebrating all that is delicious in Ottawa.
If the LCBO strike has you going thirsty, take this opportunity to discover some new-to-you fermented grape juice at one of the fabulous wine bars in the National Capital Region.
If the LCBO strike has you going thirsty, take this opportunity to discover some new-to-you fermented grape juice at one of the fabulous wine bars in the National Capital Region. These establishments welcome drinkers into a world of possibility with unique wines not available at the LCBO (even when it is open). You can sip from selections sourced from Syria, Lebanon, Georgia, Hungary, the U.K. and beyond.Here are some of the spots I’d recommend to any budding oenophile or casual taster.A wine flight with cheese and charcuterie board at Buyers + Cellars, Photo by Yvonne Langen
BUYERS + CELLARS 327 Somerset St. W., Ottawa
When you pay a visit to this Somerset Street West tasting room, you can order the wine of your choosing by the glass, curate your own selection of samples, buy a bottle or two to go, or let the incredibly knowledgeable staff guide you in a blind tasting. On my recent visit, I had the pleasure of being served by tasting room manager Curtis Stephenson and embarked on a blind tasting of five different wines. After sampling each of the wines in turn, Stephenson walked me through each glass – educating me on the grape varietal, terroir, production method, and sharing interesting tidbits about the vintners and their respective approaches to winemaking. It was a deeply informative and fun experience without the slightest hint of pomposity that some consumers associate with sommeliers. My dining companion and I paired our flights with a generous and delicious cheese and charcuterie platter. The board primarily featured local makers such as Seed to Sausage and was accompanied by delectable house-made pickles, chutneys and spiced nuts.In terms of atmosphere, the tasting room is a polished, somewhat austere space clad in black and white. What the space lacks in ambience it makes up for in its singular educational wine experience.Un petit trio at Soif Bar a Vin in Gatineau, Photo by Yvonne Langen
SOIF BAR à VIN 88 Rue Montcalm, Gatineau
Helmed by owner-sommelier Veronique Rivest, Soif Bar à Vin is a destination-worthy wine bar. Rivest garnered the attention and respect of the wine world when she became the first woman in history to reach the podium at the World’s Best Sommelier Competition in Tokyo in March 2013, finishing in second place. More recently, in a ceremony at the French embassy on June 26, Rivest was awarded the rank of Chevalier in the Ordre du Mérite agricole for her exceptional career in the service of French expertise oenology and her promotion of French wines and terroirs in Canada. The team at Soif have cultivated a relaxed and lively atmosphere that invites conversation between guests and immerses you in the world of wine. The walls and ceiling throughout are entirely made of cork. Wine glasses hang from overhead racks that have been adorned with maps of different wine regions.The wine list offers a taut, ever-changing selection of wines by the glass. Wines cultivated in organic or biodynamic fashion feature prominently. If you’re looking to embark on a journey of discovery, opt for one of the two “petit trio” of wines. On my recent visit, one trio was comprised entirely of Canadian wines and the other of Loire region wines. Both options offer drinkers a flight of three different wines, each poured in two-ounce quantities. I explored the Canadian trio and my dining companion dug into the Loire region trifecta. Our server carefully explained the heritage, sense of place, and nuances of each sample. We paired our wines with a couple of small plates from the food menu, including a vibrant fiddlehead and asparagus salad; an eye-popping assortment of verdant greens with a perfect balance of salinity, umami and herbal freshness. If you’re looking for a souvenir from your travels across the bridge, you can buy wines to go from the private import collection.Two glasses of wine with a bowl of fries at 107 Fourth Avenue Wine B ar, Photo by Yvonne Langen
107 FOURTH AVENUE WINE BAR 107 Fourth Ave., Ottawa
This cozy haunt in the Glebe has been a mainstay of the Ottawa hospitality scene for years. The atmosphere is a testament to its rich legacy; the bar is intimate and inviting with a lived-in feel that immediately puts you at ease. Quirky touches like the aquarium perched to the left of the bar or the metal mannequin made of spare parts standing at attention beside the fireplace lend personality to the space. Belly up to the bar or tuck into a quiet corner to sip on one of the approximately 20 wines sold by the glass or bottle. This bar is more focused on allowing guests to unwind and enjoy one another’s company over a glass of vino, without the educational elements you could expect at Buyers + Cellars or Soif. The food menu prioritizes comfort over culinary ingenuity with familiar bistro classics like steak frites or charcuterie. With the welcoming interior and tree-covered front patio, 107 Fourth Avenue Wine Bar offers the best bang for your buck when it comes to ambience.Le Petit Bar à Vin. Photo by Yvonne Langen.
LE PETIT BAR à VIN 168 Chemin Old Chelsea, Chelsea
Just around the corner from Nordik Spa-Nature in Chelsea, you’ll find Le Petit Bar à Vin. Tucked in among a copse of trees, you can enjoy a glass or two on the sprawling front patio or grab a seat inside. I’d recommend immersing yourself in the natural beauty of the area by dining al fresco; the interior of the restaurant is spartan and lacks the lived-in quality that makes guests feel at home. Unlike the other wine bars featured in this article, Le Petit Bar à Vin has no wine list. Your server will ask you about your palate preferences and make selections accordingly, or you can relinquish control and welcome whatever wines end up in your glass. While you can order a flight of three wines, they won’t be served simultaneously. Owner Jean-François Bilodeau tells me he made this choice intentionally. He says he didn’t want guests to feel forced to participate in a lengthy wine education that they’d soon forget or feel rushed to consume each pour side by each. Instead, Bilodeau wanted to invite guests to savour each sip and relax with friends. There are 20-25 wines on offer in any given week. Bilodeau says that, when he first opened two years ago, he thought he’d never bring in the same wine twice in the interest of showcasing as many different bottles as possible and inviting guests to discover something new on each visit. He’s had to make a few exceptions in response to overwhelming demand for a handful of unique wines that quickly became fan favourites.The bar at Abby's Wine Bar, Photo by Yvonne Langen
ABBY’S WINE BAR 283 Elgin St., Ottawa
This Elgin Street wine bar offers approximately 50 different wines by the glass. The wine list features tasting notes for each glass to inform your decision-making. Still have questions? Don’t hesitate to ask one of the sommeliers or servers who will be happy to field any follow-up questions you may have.The prices for some selections are staggering, exceeding $30 for a three-ounce pour. That being said, the team at Abby’s wanted to offer guests the opportunity to sample premium wines without forking over $200 or more for a bottle. This is a rare chance to sample sought-after wines from small producers without commitment to a full 750 ml. Small producers from Italy, Burgundy and Bordeaux dominate the wine list – the majority of which are sourced through co-owner Robert Gravelle’s wine agency, Somm Shop Wine Imports. As such, Abby’s and its sibling upstairs, Harmon’s, are the only places in Ontario where you’ll discover some of these interesting wines. Atmospherically, the black-and-white decor is restrained and a bit flat compared to the lively sips listed. On the food front, the menu shares the carnivorous ethos of Harmon’s. Meaty dishes like steak frites, wagyu burger and Tomahawk specials are on offer. The bottomless beef tallow fries served alongside the steak/burger are an invitation to gluttony that is hard to resist. If you’re looking for a more fulsome meal, there are a number of restaurants in the city with fantastic wine lists such as Play Food and Wine, Aiana, Gitanes, and Arlo, to name a few.Yvonne Langen is the food and drink content creator behind Taste & Tipple. She is also a regular fixture on TV and radio as a lifestyle expert. You may have previously read her work in Ottawa Magazine.
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