Serving up success: How two venerable Ottawa pubs have survived – and thrived – over multiple decades

There is no shortage of places to grab a pint in Ottawa, but what does it take to stand out from the crowd? Two local pubs have found ways to become cornerstones in their community and as a result, they’ll both be celebrating major milestones this year. Irene’s Pub, which doubles as a live music venue on Bank Street, is marking 40 years in business, while the Royal Oak, which now has 12 locations across Ottawa, is celebrating its 45th anniversary.  “Most bars and restaurants, unfortunately, don’t last four or five years, let alone 45,” said Justin Howard, CEO of Royal Oak Pubs.  Howard’s relationship with the Royal Oak started in the 1990s, when he began bartending at various locations across the city before bidding the pub farewell to join the corporate world at TD Bank.  But when he had the chance to rejoin the business, he said he couldn’t resist.  “The opportunity arose to come back here as top dog after the previous CEO had retired,” he said. “It all came full circle for me in many ways. When you work at a big organization (like TD), there’s a lot of benefits, but they don’t have that personal touch, that personal feel. What you do for a living – obviously you need to make money and all that stuff – but there’s more to it than that.” The Royal Oak opened its first location on Bank Street in the spring of 1980 in a building that used to be a mattress shop. The owners, John Thoday, Gordon Lilley, and John Howard, were inspired by the age-old English pub experience, which continues to drive the brand today.  Howard said much has changed about the pub and restaurant industry since that first location opened 45 years ago, adding there’s been no shortage of ups and downs.  When the city banned indoor smoking in restaurants, bars and pubs in 2001, Howard said it seemed like the end could be near for the Royal Oak. But it wasn’t. In fact, it would go on to weather many more historic crises and come out the other side.  “We thought (the smoking ban) would be the death knell,” he said. “Then there were challenges around the ’08 recession, then COVID was a nightmare. With COVID, we lost a lot of players in the industry, and a lot of great people who just never came back. It was a real void, and coming out of it, it was hard to find quality staff. “But we could rely a bit on our long-standing reputation. I think people were comforted by the fact that if I go work at the Royal Oak, this is not a fly-by-night, open-the-doors-one-day-and-close-the-next operation.” Long-term success doesn’t come without sacrifice or change, Howard said. In addition to lifelong regulars, the business also works to adapt to each new generation’s preferences and needs to continue attracting a fresh crowd.  In the early days, customers were looking for a “liquid lunch,” he said. But these days, actual food is a big priority.  “If you don’t have good food, you don’t have a business,” said Howard.  With a younger generation that’s drinking less than its predecessors, broadening the selection of non-alcoholic options was a winning decision, with mocktails now some of the best sellers on the Royal Oak’s menu.  But even amongst the regulars, alcohol tastes change with the times. While Howard said the Royal Oak will never be the kind of place to hop on the “flash-in-the-pan” type trends, keeping an ear to the ground allows the business to adjust to current preferences.  “That’s what creates longevity,” he said. “If you come hot out of the gate, typically you’re out of business in two or three years. Sometimes it’s just that slow, steady, getting to know your customer and changing with the time. We’ve definitely had to adapt a lot.”  

While Irene’s Pub has also shaken up its menu over its 40-year run, it’s the music that’s changed the most.  Owner Michael Estabrooks has been with the pub 18 years, working his way up from the kitchen to management before he took over ownership in 2021.  “When I first started, it was a bit more of a dive bar,” he said. “I don’t use that with any sort of negative connotation – I love a good dive bar. But we have made a concerted effort in the last 10 years to change the direction, and set a higher standard in all regards. We’re basically, year over year, asking how can we do things better?” Originally named Cap’n Pinky’s, the pub opened in The Glebe in 1985 with Irene Corey at the helm. Over the years, and through various owners, live music became the pub's staple.  While the Glebe has gone through plenty of changes since then, Irene’s Pub has remained a familiar haunt.  “The building itself is still standing, which is impressive,” said Estabrooks. “If you go up and down Banks Street in the last 15 years, most of the legacy buildings are now condos. A legacy neighbourhood pub in an ever-changing condo world.” Estabrooks said focusing on all things local is at the core of the operation. When the menu is updated, Irene’s tries to ensure the suppliers are local. And when the pub is searching for new acts, local musicians are top of the list.  And in the past decade, Irene’s has been expanding its horizons. Now, a week of events could include a rock ’n’ roll band or metal show on one night, followed by a climate change roundtable, author Q&A or LGBTQ+ variety show the next.  “One of our main driving forces has been how can we diversify?” said Estabrooks. “What are markets that we’re not reaching who want to use the space? That’s really at the core of Irene’s. We’re just a local hole in the wall, community gathering spot where people can play music and have a discussion. It’s a space for the community to occupy.” That means that in addition to the regulars who have been shooting the breeze in the pub for decades, new crowds are frequently visiting and discovering the space for the first time.  And much like Howard at the Royal Oak, Estabrooks understands the importance of appealing to a younger crowd.  “In the Glebe, we’re definitely seeing a turnover in the last 10 years,” he said. “A much younger generation is moving in with young families. That’s a demographic we want to bring in.” Estabrooks has big plans to mark the pub’s anniversary. He is currently in the process of securing permits to host a one-day outdoor festival outside Irene’s in September to celebrate the occasion with the community.  The Royal Oak has also been making the most of its birthday, wrapping up April with a series of celebratory events, including a whisky dinner with Dunrobin Craft Distillery, a Royal Oak trivia night, and a throwback menu featuring classics of yesteryear.  For an industry that’s been through a multitude of challenges over the decades, Howard said he’s grateful to be able to celebrate the successes. “It’s community, it’s customers, it’s staff,” he said. “When you look back in history, pubs have been the gathering point for the community, to share a laugh, a tear, or the news of the day. I hate to sound a bit corny, but it’s like the show Cheers: they’re always glad you came and everyone knows your name.”