Hotel restaurants often get a bad rap. In my humble and honest opinion, sometimes it’s warranted; they can be overpriced while under-delivering on quality and service. However, sometimes a hotel bar or restaurant can rise above and deliver an enjoyable experience for both hotel guests and non-guests.
Some are even honoured with awards, such as by being named to OpenTable’s Top 50 Hotel Restaurants in Canada list. Two restaurants in Ottawa graced the list this year, but how good could they really be? I decided to find out for myself by dining at The Shore Club in The Westin Hotel and Zoe’s inside the Fairmont Chateau Laurier. Plus, I’m going to suggest another hotel restaurant that’s been making waves on social media lately, Norca, which is located in the Le Germain Hotel.
Norca
Let’s start with the honourable mention that I believe should be on the top 50 list. Norca has had a bit of a facelift over the last little while, specifically through its newfound social media campaign but also in the literal sense when it put head chef James Bratsberg’s face on its coasters.
Bratsberg is known for transforming local ingredients into flavourful and expertly conceptualized dishes. His time spent in Ottawa building a name for himself ultimately landed him as the decision-maker in the kitchen at Norca. He was tasked by the hotel with creating a menu that was unique and approachable but also in keeping with the atmosphere.
Bratsberg took this challenge and spun it on its head, removing items like the beloved hamburger and replacing it with more elevated concepts that frequent diners would clamour to get their hands on. Bratsberg produced highlight after highlight, finding ways to incorporate unfamiliar techniques into familiar flavours and creating dishes that are exactly what the brief called for.
Some highlights during my visit were the cavatelli pasta with cheddar mousse and shimeji mushrooms. Not to “dumb down” the dish, but this was like if a top chef made mac and cheese. It was beautifully seasoned, rich in texture and flavour, and hit all the notes you want a fresh pasta dish to hit — not to mention I could bathe in the foamy cheddar topping.
I’d also recommend Bratsberg’s take on gazpacho. Not your traditional cold tomato soup, but rather a semi-set gelé topped with a parmesan foam. It was a true umami bomb.
All of this food was enjoyed in a beautiful and comfortable dining room. The large floor-to-ceiling windows bring in natural light creating a vibrant atmosphere.
Although Norca was wonderful, it wasn’t perfect. First, I should start by saying that all three places on this list are guilty of one major thing: overpriced wine. A general rule of thumb in the restaurant world is that your first nine-ounce glass should pay for the bottle, but this is only true for lower-priced bottles. In no world should a single glass of Sangiovese cost $66 (I won’t mention which of the three restaurants is the culprit). I get that there is a premium for hotel restaurants, but c’mon.
Norca’s biggest fault, however, was the cocktail menu. The food is so well thought-out, inspired and executed, it’s unfortunate that the cocktail list doesn’t follow suit. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not like the cocktails are undrinkable, but when I’m spending close to $20 per cocktail, I would have loved to see something that matched the level of passion coming from the kitchen.
The Shore Club
I’d like to start by admitting my biases walking into The Shore Club, the upscale dining spot inside The Westin Hotel in Ottawa’s downtown.
I am a believer that “white-tablecloth dining” is dead and that not far behind it is the classic “steakhouse-and-seafood concept.” As a result, I did not have high expectations when walking through the double glass doors into the dimly lit dining hall. But I am also the first to admit when I am at least somewhat wrong.
First, the aforementioned dining room is beautiful and grandiose in the best way possible. It feels elevated and elegant and I understand why it would draw any hungry diner in. The bar seat was comfortable and the staff was incredibly friendly.
In fact, this was the highlight at The Shore Club. My bartender/server, Taylor, made my experience better than I could have imagined. She was friendly, attentive and genuinely concerned about my experience. She treated me as if she was an owner trying to create a regular, and it worked. I would go back just for the service alone.
This brings me to the food. I ordered the ribeye, medium, with a Caesar salad on the side. When my steak arrived I had mixed feelings. The crust was beautiful, but it was clear the steak was under-rested as the juices were all over my plate. Taylor also noticed that my steak was slightly underdone. She offered to replace it but I declined as it was still delicious. The meat was seasoned beautifully, the cut was tender and juicy, and ultimately if I were to send it back for a slight undercook it would have been because I was nitpicking. The Caesar salad was tasty and the bonus item I was provided was interesting — salt and vinegar fries, which were shoestring-cut potatoes, soaked overnight in vinegar and fried to a very crispy exterior but chewy interior texture. Once again, everything I ate was very well-seasoned.
The Shore Club is far and away the leader of the three spots when it comes to cocktails. Not only were they priced in line with what you’d pay for a craft cocktail elsewhere in the city, but they were inspired and exciting. My kaffir lime, ginger and scallion gin sour was delicious. When a cocktail is both creative and balanced, you are going to make me a happy man. Shore Club, you made me a happy man with this one.
Overall, my experience at The Shore Club was great. I’d go back to try other items on the menu and experience the level of service I believe every hotel restaurant should use as the standard. The spot on the top 50 list was well-deserved.
Zoe’s
Walking into Zoe’s two-tiered dining hall is the tale of, well, two dining halls. The front half is a dimly lit lounge, perfect for sipping an evening cocktail, whereas the back dining room is large and bright, with elegant white-and-gold accents.
I opted to visit Zoe’s for lunch, choosing the classic lunch menu over the high tea option. I was seated in a comfortable chair and was greeted by my server Chantal. Once again I was provided with kind and attentive service by someone who seemed to care about the work.
I scanned the menu, ultimately opting for the shellfish pot au feu and a spin on the Manhattan to drink.
Let’s start with the food: it took quite some time for my food to arrive, but that’s just the nature of restaurants sometimes. When it did arrive, the savoury broth was piping hot and piled high with various shellfish and veggies, served with a slice of grilled bread on the side.
Credit where credit is due; the broth was well-seasoned and the absolute mound of seafood was worth every penny. This dish was filling, satisfying and heartwarming.
The cocktail list as a whole at Zoe’s was interesting. I really enjoyed the concepts. I did not enjoy the oversold ChatGPT-like descriptions (nothing you put in my glass is an opulent expression of anything). I really didn’t like seeing a $28 price tag on a cocktail that’s base spirit is Canadian Club rye. But, all in all, my cocktail was tasty and well-presented (the orange peel in the shape of a Z was a nice touch).
It’s true that sometimes hotel restaurants can be hit or miss. You’re paying a premium for convenience, but you should also receive a premium. One thing is for sure. Despite some minor flaws, all three of these establishments create an elevated experience where you will enjoy what you’re eating.
Jordan Pizzuti has been a local Ottawa food writer, content creator, and hospitality professional for over 10 years. Through his “best of” series, Jordan has cemented himself as an expert in Ottawa hospitality and nightlife. He continues to promote the Ottawa hospitality scene through his “Are We Having Fun Yet?” brand and his work with the Ottawa Business Journal.
