The Grand Pizzeria opened in Ottawa’s ByWard Market in 2009. Today, the 17-year-old business is run by two Ottawa restaurateurs with years of experience.
David Mangano and John Borsten have committed themselves to being mainstays in the Ottawa hospitality scene, meaning they’ve pretty much seen all you can see when it comes to the industry. For the most part, they spent their time opening restaurants in Ottawa’s downtown, but when the opportunity arose to take over the newly renovated space at Westboro Beach, the pair jumped at the opportunity.
I sat down with Mangano to discuss what it’s been like opening and running the newest location in their portfolio. Most notably, we discussed the Swiss gondolas that are making the beach restaurant a year-round dining destination.
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Mangano has owned businesses in the Market since 1997, with his partner Borsten boasting 40 years of experience in the area. When the first Grand location became available in 2009, they aimed (and bid) high because of how intrigued they were. At the time, they knew they wanted to do pizzas. Most importantly, they wanted to be the first restaurant in Ottawa to use a wood-burning oven with pizza as the main offering. It was something that strayed from the usual “Ottawa-style” pizzas that many of us were used to.
Mangano noted his Italian background and his familiarity with wood-fire cooking, and the importance of sticking to those roots. Back in 2009, he believed in the concept so much that he and Borsten hired a pizza chef straight from Italy to help open the business. Eventually, this turned into a team of Italians running the show in the back of house. The goal was to use imported Italian ingredients, techniques and evidently people to create the best product possible.
Although the team has since changed, the same sentiment and execution rings true. Mangano and Borsten still import everything they can from Italy, and their team has been trained by the same Italian pizza chefs who once started the business.
Things like their hand-crafted Neapolitan pizza oven that heats to 800 degrees, buffala mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes are the core of what makes The Grand’s pizza special.
With so much success in the ByWard Market, I was curious to know why Mangano and Borsten wanted to take the leap to Westboro Beach, especially with it being so seasonal (or so I thought).
Mangano mentioned how important the influence of the National Capital Commission was. The NCC spearheaded the restoration of most of the Westboro Beach space, including the new pavilion and restaurant. When NCC officials gave Mangano and Borsten a tour, the restaurateurs were hooked on the opportunity. The patio space drew them in, with Mangano noting how beautiful it would be to have people coming in off the beach to watch the sun set while enjoying a pizza and a drink.
We all know how important patio season is to Ottawans, and with a $25-million development being done to help the process along, it felt like the right time and opportunity, he said.
But what about the winter? Well, that’s where an Ottawa innovation came in.
The Grand’s new dining gondolas have taken pizza-eaters and winter diners by storm. But what exactly are they? And how did they come to be at The Grand?
First, it’s important to explain what a gondola is. Not the long boats found on the water in Venice, but rather a ski gondola. A large retro-lift that would typically bring you to the top of a Swiss ski hill or from one mountain to another.
Mangano and Borsten stumbled onto the gondolas when a friend reached out with an offer. He had wanted to order the Swiss structures for himself, but the maker only sold them in sets of six. Since the friend only needed one, he approached Mangano and Borsten with an offer to buy and use the other five for their restaurant.
The gondolas have been retrofitted for dining. They are heated, upholstered and even have speakers to create a comfortable and cozy semi-outdoor dining experience.
Mangano and Borsten, understanding the risk of trying something completely new in Ottawa, decided to roll the dice and see what the Swiss structures could do for their business.
Well, it turned out that the roll was a good one, because the gondolas have been booked weeks in advance since opening day. The warm lighting and cozy atmosphere have provided an opportunity for diners that they can’t get elsewhere and, when paired with the pizza-making experience, have created a new hot spot in the city.
For those of you who cannot wait to try them, there are a few things you should know. The gondolas have a booking fee: $20 for lunch and $25 for dinner. Bookings can be made online or by phone. It is recommended you book well in advance, as they book up fast.
Jordan Pizzuti has been a local Ottawa food writer, content creator and hospitality professional for over 10 years. Through his “best of” series, Jordan has cemented himself as an expert in Ottawa hospitality and nightlife. He continues to promote the Ottawa hospitality scene through his “Are We Having Fun Yet?” brand and his work with OBJ.
